Images(4)

Gown, brocaded silk

Date1775-1785, altered later

OriginGreat Britain (textile); probably worn in Virginia

MediumSilk, linen, cotton

DimensionsGown A: OL 70 in.;
Silk width 18 34 in.;
Bodice pieces A: OL about 26 in.

Credit LineGift of the Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2023-204,A&B

DescriptionA. Woman's gown of dusty pink silk woven in a ribbed compound weave in a narrow stripe pattern overlaid with undulating swags of green leaves and brocaded with sprays of flowers in green, salmon, pink, and yellow. The undecorated bodice has a wide low neckline, slightly squared, and closes at center front, probably intended to be pinned shut. The bodice dips into a curve below the waist. The fitted sleeves are elbow length, without cuffs or ruffles. The full skirt is unlined and pleated to the bodice in small close pleats directed toward the back. The skirt fronts curve back and down into a trained skirt with a narrow hemmed finish. The center fronts of the skirt are cut and left as raw edges, but thread remnants suggest the original presence of hems or bindings. The "sack" back has deep multiple pleats fastened at the neckline and falling open from the neckline into the trained skirt. Both bodice and sleeves are lined with linen. The bodice lining has an insert of a different linen at center back and a later crepe patch at the back neckline. The gown is fragile with repairs and tears.

B. Two front sleeveless bodice pieces of dusty pink brocaded silk matching gown A. The bodice pieces are largely machine sewn and fashioned with darts to shape the pieces into a nineteenth-century silhouette "hourglass" shape. Hooks and eyes survive down the center fronts. Narrow self fabric straps extend up and around to the back neckline. The bodice pieces are lined with yellowish-cream twill cotton and have twill tape channels for boning.Label TextThis woman's gown shows evidence of alterations over many years. Althogh any trimmings and sleeve ruffles or cuffs are missing, separate bodice pieces cut in a later nineteenth-century hourglass shape survive to document the later alterations.ProvenanceLate 1770s, probably worn by the mother or another ancestor of Mrs. James Rawlings (born Susanna Robinson Grayson Hedgeman) [1792-1879] (Richmond, VA); dates unknown, Mrs. R. Corbin Spencer Maupin (born Margaret Lewis, Portsmouth, VA); 1946, donated to the Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA); 2023, given to The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA)