Images(2)

Gown, green-rust changeable silk

Date1790-1800

OriginEngland (probably) (textile); worn in America, Virginia

MediumSilk, linen

DimensionsOL 68 in.
Selvage width of textile: 22 in.

Credit LineGift of the Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2023-218

DescriptionWoman's gown of silk woven with green warps and reddish brown wefts giving an iridescent "changeable" effect. The gown is made with a very high waistline and a drop-front opening, sometimes known as an "apron front." The drop panel is open at the sides down to the hips. The fitted front drop-front bodice panel is constructed with a slightly low rounded neckline that is intended to fasten in place at the shoulders. Tucks at center front angle to the waistline seam. Cream-color linen extensions of the bodice lining are designed to pin closed at center front, covered by the drop front panel. The short hemmed sleeves have an inner linen sleeve stitched into the armseye but hemmed and left loose near the sleeve opening. The back bodice has a very narrow back shoulders and one-inch-wide V-shaped strips stitched to the bodice from the rear armseye to a position just above the skirt in a chevron effect. The V is top stitched with green silk. The long trained skirt is stitched without gathers or pleats at the front and side bodice with pleats clustered at the center back. Old fold lines suggest the skirt once had additional pleats. Skirt has 1 1/8 inch hem.

Condition: there are underarm stains. Small holes and one-to-two-inch tears, especially in the skirt. Twentieth-century repairs consist of twill tape bodice ties and sheer brown silk to reinforce the back train of the hem and lining part of the apron front.

Changes over time:
Original construction: possibly 1780s.
1790s: the original lower bodice was shortened to raise the waistline, leaving some of the original bodice length under the newly-positioned skirt. The skirt had some pleats removed and was restitched to the bodice.
1986-1987: Modern repairs and adjustments made to fit mannequin: The bodice front was gathered in slightly and tacked to modern twill tape to serve as ties. Missing top-stitching replaced in areas. Skirt partially backed with silk crepeline and tears reinforced.Label TextBy the end of the eighteenth century, women's gowns followed the new style for very high waistlines. This gown follows the new style in a crisp silk woven of green in one direction and reddish-brown in the other, giving a two-color changeable effect as the textile moves and catches the light.Mark(s)Old number label stitched inside bodice: V.69.202ProvenanceProbably 1780s, Sister of Anne Woodson Venable (dates unknown); by descent through family to Mrs. Albert Sidney Venable (Sallie "Lalla" Elizabeth Garden Venable, 1868-1951), [born Prince Edward County, VA; died Cecil, MD]; 1951 descended to Rev. Sidney Johnson Venable (1894-1986), [Wilmington, DE]; 1969, given to Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA); 2023, given to The Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA).