Gown, brocaded silk

Date1780s from late 1740s silk, altered later

OriginEngland (silk); worn in America, Virginia

MediumSilk, linen

DimensionsOL 55 in.;
Waist: 26 in;
Selvage width of brocaded silk: 20 1/2 in.

Credit LineGift of the Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2023-209

DescriptionWoman's gown of cream-color silk brocaded with scattered floral sprays in reds, pinks, mauves, greens, and yellow. A self-pattern background ground is woven in vines, flowers, and heart-shaped leaves. The fitted bodice has a low rounded neckline and center-front closure ending in points just below the waist. The front fastening consists of modern hooks and eyes on twill tape stitched into gown. Self-fabric patches under the arms. The back bodice has seams curving toward waist, with a deep V at center back where it meets the skirt. The sleeves end just above the elbows. The right sleeve retains fragments of later machine lace frill or ruffle. The full skirt, open in front, is pleated to the bodice in small pleats. The skirt is pieced in areas. The bodice and sleeves are lined with plain-woven linen; the skirt is lined with later thin cream silk. The condition of the gown is very poor, with splits throughout and colors bleeding.

Alterations: remade around the 1780s from late 1740s silk. Skirt lining probably nineteenth century (stitched with chain-stitch machine). Hook and eye closure probably added in the twentieth century.Label TextAccording to donor history, this gown was worn by Sally Cary Fairfax (1730-1811), who was born into one of Virginia's wealthiest families and married into the colony's largest landowners. After marrying George William Fairfax in 1747, she managed the affairs at their plantation, Belvoir, and befriended neighbors George and Martha Washington. Fairfax and her husband moved to England in 1773, where she died in 1811.Provenance1740s, possibly Sarah "Sally" Cary (Mrs. George William) Fairfax [1730-1811] (Warwick and Fairfax, VA); dates unknown, descended in family; ca. 1957, Ursula Fairfax Harrison (Mrs. Charles) Baird and Sally Cary Fairfax Harrison (Mrs. Gerhard) Dieke; 1957, given to Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA); 2023, given to Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA).