Images(4)

Gown; Petticoat, Brocaded Silk

Date1770-1775

OriginGreat Britain; worn in America (probably)

MediumSilk, linen

DimensionsA. OL 66 1/2 in.
B. OL 40 inches; waist 26 in.; circumference 138 1/2 in.
Textile Selvage width 19 1/4 in.

Credit LineGift of The Valentine Museum, Richmond, VA

Object number2023-164,A&B

DescriptionA. Woman's sack-back gown of peachy-beige, pale salmon, and blue striped silk brocaded over the stripes with undulating flowers and sprigs in pink, blue, bright green, salmon, and brown. The bodice is fitted at the front with a squared neckline created by a self-stomacher fastening at center front with replaced hooks and eyes. The 3/4 length sleeves are decorated with wide ruched bands stitched from a position halfway up the arms and releasing at the elbows into ruffles. Pleated robings, graduated in size, run from the back neckline, down the bodice on either side of the self stomacher, and into the open-front skirt, where they curve toward the skirt sides. The skirt fronts are further decorated with self-fabric puffs and silk cream-color lace (probably "blonde") undulating down the skirt fronts. The bodice back has wide box pleats forming a "sack" back that extends down into the trained skirt. The bodice and sleeves are lined with light brown linen. The fitted bodice lining has lacing eyelets at center back to adjust the waist fit. The unlined skirt is faced with a wide band of coarse reddish-brown linen. A metal eyelet stitched to the center back skirt may have been a later addition to fasten up the trained skirt.

B. Petticoat matching gown A of the same brocaded striped silk. The full skirt is pleated to a narrow tape waistband fastened with a replaced hook and eye at center back. The lower portion of the skirt front, visible when it is worn under the open-front gown, is trimmed with self-fabric puffed and pleated trimming and silk cream-color lace applied in a serpentine arrangement. The upper back is constructed of reddish-brown coarse linen, matching the wide hem facing. The petticoat is otherwise unlined. A patch of cream silk satin reinforces repairs to the front upper petticoat near the waistband (a repair from 1987).Label TextThis gown and matching petticoat of silk, striped and brocaded on the loom with floral clusters, was an expensive and elegant ensemble for dressy occasions.Provenance1770s to twentieth century, provenance unknown; before ca.1960, Mrs. Ralph W. Miller (Charlottesville, VA); 1960, given to Valentine Museum (Richmond, VA); 2023, given to Colonial Williamsburg Foundation (Williamsburg, VA)